Perfect pastry everytime

At its most basic, pastry is nothing more than 2 parts flour to 1 part fat, but the trouble is that there are just so many things that can go wrong. There is an old saying that goes “Cold hands make good pastry” and it is true that temperature is an important factor when making pastry. Water mixed with flour helps swell the flour granules so they can next form gluten. Water, however, is absorbed much less easily into flour proteins when the temperature is colder. That's why purists recommend cold ingredients, cold equipment and marble boards. Keeping the butter cold also helps when making short crust pastry because it doesn't melt into the flour when you are working it in. With puff pastry, cold butter provides the vital barrier and air pockets between the pastry that translates in eating terms into delicious flakiness. Cold hands and a cold kitchen also help, which is why Grandma's pastry was often better

A lot of problems also occur when the pastry is over worked and gluten starts to develop. Gluten is created when two flour proteins called glutelin and gliadin bond with the help of water and form long chains and sheets through pressure, manipulation and stretching of the dough. It’s great for making bread or fresh pasta but it will ruin your nice, light, fluffy pastry!

In most types of pastry, fat is added not just to provide flavour but also to stop gluten development. Basically, the fat "coats" the flour and stops these proteins forming bonds to create gluten. That's why we always "rub in" our butter to the flour to form crumbs before adding any liquids.

When adding the liquid to the crumb mixture, add two thirds of your liquid and immediately mix and bring together with a round-bladed knife. If the mixture looks dry add the liquid you have left. This stops you getting waterlogged pastry, and evenly distributes the liquid so the dough is smooth and even. If you’ve added too much water, add a bit of extra flour and briefly work it in.

When you have made your dough, its important to relax the gluten so your pastry dough should be rested in the fridge for at least 30 minutes. Make sure you wrap it in clingfilm to help stop it drying out. Once you’ve rolled out your pastry, chilling it again will relax the gluten and help stop it shrinking too much when cooked.

I like to roll my pastry out between sheets of greaseproof paper. This keeps the pastry from drying out because you don’t need extra flour, and it’s less exposed to the kitchen air. It also keeps it cool and helps keep you from overworking it’s less messy.

Apple Frangipane Tart

Serves: 8

• 3 apples (peeled & cored)
• 20 freshly peeled whole almonds

Sweet pastry:

• 450g plain flour
• Pinch of salt
• 150g icing sugar
• 200g cold butter (diced)
• 3 egg yolks

Frangipane

• 6 egg yolks
• 150g ground almonds
• 130g sugar
• 50g flour
• 10g corn flour
• 500ml milk
• 1 vanilla pod (split)

For the sweet pastry:

1. Place the butter, flour and salt in a food processor and pulse until it resembles breadcrumbs. Add the sugar and egg yolks and pulse again, just enough to incorporate the eggs. Scrap out the pastry and wrap in cling film. Place in the fridge to rest for at least 30 minutes.
2. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to about 3mm thick.
3. Line a 20cm tart ring with the pastry and rest in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes.

To make the frangipane:

1. Place the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl and whisk until light and fluffy. Add the flour, ground almonds and corn flour. Mix well.
2. Bring the milk to the boil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan with the vanilla pod. As soon as the milk starts to bubble, pour half onto the egg yolk mixture, stirring all the time. Pour this mixture back into the pan with the rest of the milk and return to the heat. Cook out over a gentle flame, stirring continuously for 2-3 minutes until the mixture thickens. Pass the thick custard through a fine sieve and leave to cool.
3. Place the chilled frangipane to the pastry case. Then, using a palette knife or the back of a spoon, level the surface. Cut the apples in quarters and press them lightly into the filling, scatter the whole almonds on top and dust lightly with icing sugar.
4. Place in a hot oven (180cº/350fº/gas6) for 25-30 minutes until the frangipane is cooked and the top is lightly caramelised.

Basic Shortcrust Pastry

The most basic of pastries, but for my money the humble shortcrust never lets you down, especially for savoury tartlets.

Ingredients

• 220g plain flour
• 100g butter, diced
• 2-3 tbsp cold water
• A pinch of salt

Method

Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl, add the butter and rub in with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add 2-3 tbsp water and mix to a firm dough. Knead the dough briefly and gently on a floured surface until it just comes together. Wrap in cling film and chill while preparing the filling.

Tomato, oregano and black olive tart

Serves: 4

• 300g shortcrust pastry
• 4 whole eggs
• 2 tomatoes (peeled and chopped)
• 15 black olives (stoned)
• 350ml cream
• 100g grated Parmesan
• 20 fresh oregano leaves (torn)

Method

1. Line a 8 inch pastry case with shortcrust pastry and cover with greaseproof paper and baking beans.
2. Bake for 10 minutes in a moderate oven (180ºc), remove the baking beans and greaseproof paper and bake for a further 3-4 minutes to finish cooking the pastry.
3. Place the chopped tomatoes in a sieve and drain well to remove all the excess juice. Add the tomatoes to the pastry case and sprinkle with the black olives and oregano leaves.
4. Beat the eggs with the cream and season to taste. Pour over the tomatoes and bake for 10-15 minutes until just set. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan and place under a hot grill until golden brown.
5. Leave to cool and serve warm with a simple rocket leaf salad.

Chocolate & lavender tart

This rich, decadent chocolate & lavender tart works really well with red fruits and vanilla ice cream. If you can’t find lavender flowers you can substitute with a sprig of fresh rosemary or a few green cardamom pods. I sometimes make this tart with eucalyptus and it’s also a delicious alternative.

Serves: 6-8

For the pastry:

• 120g plain flour
• 60g icing sugar
• 50g chilled butter, diced
• 1 whole egg
• 1tbsp cold water
• A pinch of salt

For the filling:

• 180g dark chocolate, chopped
• 100g butter
• 80g plain flour
• 140g sugar
• 6 whole eggs
• 1tbsp dried lavender flowers

To serve:

• 2tbsp dark cocoa powder

For the sweet pastry:

1. Place the butter, flour and salt in a food processor and pulse until it resembles breadcrumbs. Add the sugar, cold water and egg and pulse again, just enough to incorporate the egg. Scrap out the pastry and mix gently until it comes together to form a firm dough. Wrap in cling film and leave to rest in the fridge for at least 30 minutes.
2. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to about 3mm thick.
3. Line a 23cm tart ring with the pastry and rest in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes.
4. Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6 (180C fan)
5. Prick the base of the pastry with a fork and line the pastry case with a circle of baking parchment or foil and fill with baking beans. Bake the pastry blind for 10 minutes, or until just lightly golden-brown, then remove the paper and beans and return the tart to the oven to cook for a further 3-4 minutes.

For the filling:

1. Gently heat the butter, lavender flowers, and chocolate in a medium pan over a low heat and stir until melted and smooth.
2. Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar and flour. Beat in the eggs, one at a time and pass through a fine sieve.
3. Place the pastry case on a baking tray. Pour the chocolate mixture into the pastry case, filling it right to the top and place in the oven.
4. Bake for 12-15 minutes until just set. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.
5. Dust with cacao powder, cut into portions, and serve with vanilla ice cream and fresh berries.