![](https://assets.vogue.com/photos/66992e3065005abede76fa18/16:9/w_1280,c_limit/VO0824_Pizza_01.jpg)
The United States of Pizza
It happened the way Hemingway described bankruptcy: gradually and then suddenly. I was a young Brooklyn-based food writer cataloging differences between crusts at Saraghina and Motorino while nibbling a slice from Roberta’s—hopping nimbly onto my red …